Your favorite gun cleaning method...

13478 Views 21 Replies 17 Participants Last post by tr909user, Jan 8, 2016

David

Discussion Starter · Mar 17, 2013

I'm curious... what is your favorite method of cleaning a gun (any gun)? Do you spray it with with a specific brand spray for each step? Exactly how do you do it?

Tonight I tried brake cleaner first, scrubbed it well with a brush, then ran the part under hot water, dried it, then sprayed it with Kroil and let it sit overnight. Wonder what everyone else's method is. Anyone wish to share?

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

9UC

· #2 · Mar 18, 2013

Products.

1. O'Reilly's non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

2. Homemade Ed's Red
(Equal Parts of

Tech 200 Dextron II Auto Transmission fluid
Acetone
Varsol
Kerosene (Indoor grade)

http://www.handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9

Note: There are a number of variations on the mixture, the above was a gift from a friend.

3. Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube

I've got to admit that over the years I've changed the method and the products that I use for cleaning and lubing my guns several times. I now use a modification of a procedure I picked up on another Bersa Forum.

After safety check, and field striping, I spray the gun down, inside and out, with a good ole' O'Reilly's non-chlorinated brake cleaner as it's basically the same thing and far cheaper than the name brand spray gun cleaners. While saturated and dripping the spray cleaner, I clean all accessible internal parts using both the soft brass and nylon cleaning brushes, scrubbing the inside of barrel with brass bore brush and using Q-Tips to get into small places and then the external parts with the nylon brushes only. Respray brake cleaner to rinse, sometimes having to repeat a couple of times. (Just as a note, I also use all these procedures on the mag well.)

I then saturate all parts with Ed's Red lightly scrubbing using separate nylon brushes, including cleaning the barrel using an eyelet with swabs. I then wipe all parts down with lint free cloth until totally dry inside and out.

Some don't use the next step, but before assembly, I apply a very light coat of Finish Line. (It initially looks wet, but shortly drys to a fine dry coat) to all internal and external parts. I do use cotton or wool bore mops to final clean the barrel.

Final assembly then wipe down of Finish Line on external parts, l give it a few minutes, then wipe down again.

I've been using varations of the above products for several years on my Bersas, my classic M1 Carbine & 1911 and on a S&W SS revolver I store for my brother.

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Pancho_Villa

· #3 · Mar 18, 2013

Man, that is some detailed gun cleaning. Guees I am lazy.

I like shooting AKs cause they are low maintenance. Have 3 old NORINCO/Chinese guns that I have had since the 80s. Haven't cleaned them yet and I know they will shoot when I get hem out. Got an Egyptian Maaddi that I have had for 5 years and it does just as well. Love those chorme lined bores. Well, I do spray the innards with Rem Oil sometimes. About the same for the SKSs too.

Now the dang AR is another story. I think I clean it more often than I shoot it.

Revos are easy to care for too. I might clean them once or twice a year if I have fired them a couple of hundred times. Some Hoppe's No. 9 bore cleaner on a brush and then a dry patch, Same for trhe cylinders. Rem Oil in the action. I usually shoot them more than the auto pistols, cause I don't loose the brass. I reload and can't see well, so I don't reload any auto pistols ammo except for .45 auto.

I usually clean my auto pistols after a hundred rounds or so. Not real clean. Just the bore cleaner and brush. Then dry patch. Plastic brush and bore cleaner on the rails. Rem Oil spray on the rails and action only. If it is a blue steel gun, I use a light gun grease on the outside so I won't sweat the blue off.

Hunting rifles. Bore cleaner and brush, dry patch after every 50 rounds, light spray of Rem Oil on action and barrel if blue and furniture polish on wood stock.Dull grey and poly stock ones only get a wipe down. Avoid getting oil on the optics.

Feaking .22 autorifles and pistols get cleane d almost after every use. At least wipe out the action with bore cleaner and Q-tips, bore claner and brush. Then a dry patch. I try to avoid stripping them till they really get crudded up. The revos, bolt actions and lever actions can go much longer.

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9UC

· #4 · Mar 18, 2013

2

Pancho_Villa said:
Man, that is some detailed gun cleaning.

Yeah man, it does sound detailed and I started not to post my cleaning routine as it was lengthy and it took me longer to write it than it takes me to clean any one of the pistols I own. Rereading it before posting it kinda' reminded me of listening to DW use a doctoral thesis when a ten word sentence would accomplish the task. It's not really as detailed as it sounds, once you get the pattern of cleaning set and as I always clean within a day every time I fire, thus no build up, it now doesn't take me any longer than previous methods.

Maybe next time I'll go with scrub with break spray, scrub with Ed's Red, lube with Finish Line, and drip dry.

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bootman

· #5 · Mar 20, 2013 (Edited)

I know that no one will take me to heart on this but I used the brake cleaner before they removed the chlorine. But now it doesn't disolve the powder like before. I have started back to using simple WD-40 for my cleaner/solvent and it is so simple and even works. I know that gun shop owners will tell you to buy brand X or Y cleaner but it is bunk...WD-40 will not rust your gun or ruin it. I am 73 yrs old and have guns that are wiped down with it often and they are perfectly sound and without rust. I sometimes use breakfree or lately I have been using M-pro7 for a final wipe and I like the way it shines the gun....But WD-40 is as good as anything for a cleaning solvent. And the Walmart generic is great too...anyone can direct their anti-WD-40 posts here but they won't affect me whatsoever. I will continue to use it as I have for the past 40 years...

spyder

· #6 · Mar 24, 2013

I just toss my guns in the dishwasher when there is extra room and my wifes not home.

hotshott

· #7 · Mar 25, 2013

I clean my hand guns with Liquid Wrench and lube with Rem-oil.
Long guns(when I shoot,em) get cleaned with Hoppes and lubed with Rem-oil. The Marlins take a while as I break them down. All wooden funiture is wiped down with Bona wood floor products as needed. I was able to get 8 oz. sample bottles thru the manufacturer. Lint free cloth only. I buy sheets of white cotton fabric at Wal-mart and cut patches to size as needed for cleaning. The savings over buying cleaning patches is excellent.

cheerylcanete8

· #8 · May 5, 2013

When cleaning a cannon, a solvent is generally used to soften any copper or gun dust residue, and an oil or wax-based preservative is directed to defend the exterior surface. Rods, paint brushes, patches and other means of scrubbing the interior and exterior exterior of the cannon are furthermore essential.

ctvarner

· #9 · May 5, 2013

I tear open and flatten out a cereal box as a mat to catch the inevitable drips & splatters, working on the inside surface as it's more absorbent. I run a couple Hoppes-soaked patches down the barrel, then a "tornado" brush with more Hoppes, followed by a couple more patches 'til it's well & truly clean, then one more with a few drops of light oil. The rest of the gun is scrubbed with Hoppes and a small toothbrush, wiped down with more patches or white cotton cloth. Drip a little light oil on all moving parts, wipe excess.

hilandr

· #10 · May 6, 2013

ctvarner said:
I tear open and flatten out a cereal box as a mat to catch the inevitable drips & splatters, working on the inside surface as it's more absorbent. I run a couple Hoppes-soaked patches down the barrel, then a "tornado" brush with more Hoppes, followed by a couple more patches 'til it's well & truly clean, then one more with a few drops of light oil. The rest of the gun is scrubbed with Hoppes and a small toothbrush, wiped down with more patches or white cotton cloth. Drip a little light oil on all moving parts, wipe excess.

Precisely what I do!

Tremors

· #11 · Jan 25, 2014

I usually start by field stripping the gun down to the basic parts. Then I start with small parts with a nylon brush and Ed Red Cleaner(find the recipe online), if its stubborn I use a brass brush. I also use the 6'' Medical Q-tips (order them online for about 20 bucks for 3000) for the hard to reach areas using the same cleaner. For the barrel I like to use the Bore Snakes. If I feel it needs a good scrubbing I use a bore brush and some patches. I clean until the patches or the Q-tips come clean. Then I oil the pistol using Ed Red Gun Oil. Then assemble and then do a safety check and re-holster or put it away until next range visit. For a drop cloth I use an old Shirt. I usually do all my cleaning at the kitchen table while watching my favorite TV Show.

hobbles

· #12 · Jan 25, 2014

I tear it down, I like how a 9UC comes apart, and spray every part of it with WD40. I put the red tube over the firing pit and force the spray down it. Spray the trigger, hammer, ejector, slide and all the frame. Then I take an air hose to it till all the black stops coming out. After all the WD40 is gone, I'll take a bore brush to the barrel. After that I use patches on the barrel and then lightly oil the whole weapon. Been doing it that way for over 2 years. Takes about 20 minutes. I get no FTF's or FTE's.
Getting all the black out of it really makes the weapon operate very smoothly. You can feel it. People tell me WD40 is not to be used on a weapon. I tell them I blow all the WD40 off/out of it, then oil it. After I tried it that way once, I'll never stop doing it that way. (But you gotta have a air hose, small nozzle and air compressor.)

bootman

· #13 · Jan 26, 2014

favorite cleaning method

I used to use the brake cleaner but after they removed the key ingredient it is useless in my opinion. I now use WD-40. Opinion about WD-40 is about 50/50 for and against. But it is about as good as solvent as any. Or as a wipe down I have used it and put guns up for 10 years with no problems...

After using the snake or wire brush I am done and then I wipe down the gun with my oily/WD-40 rag. been using similar method for about 30 years.

Tremors

· #14 · Sep 14, 2014 (Edited)

I have recently acquired the Hornady Ultrasonic Cleaner. It is great at cleaning. Just need to do light drying and lubing and your ready to go.

dutchboy

· #15 · Sep 14, 2014 (Edited)

Being "Old School", I use good old Hoppes. Been using this stuff for 30 years and theres no need to change because it works. I also use their gun oil to lube as well. I use a silicone rag that must be older than my kids to wipe down at the end of my cleaning. Oh yes, it's also made by Hoppes. Every now and then I will saturate the rag by spraying it down with silicone.

Of course I use Q-tips and dental tools for the hard to reach areas. My sister is a Dentist and she gave me an old set of dental tools and picks that are great for cleaning (trust me). Don't know about the rest of you but to clean your weapon right, it's gonna take several hours. For me I have peace of mind knowing that my gun won't jam due to poor cleaning habits.

greg_r

· #16 · Oct 25, 2014

I like good ole' Hoppes No 9. Have developed a fondness for Rem Oil also. I will also admit to keeping a can of WD.40 in close proximity also

.

dutchboy

· #17 · Dec 2, 2014

Got a quick question. Without having to actually remove the firing pin from the BT380, are there any nozzel sprays that one can use to spray into the hole in order to help keep this area clean???

Hamm0ckjames

· #18 · Dec 21, 2014

Howdy Folks,

I still follow the tried and true Army method. I disassemble down to the main components, strip each component to the screws and scrub with my old military issue cleaning kit, bore brushes, nylon brushes, Hoppe's #9 and Rem Oil with Teflon. For my long guns I still use Break Free and RBC with Rem Oil. Been doing it this way for over 35 years now and still works well. Reassemble with a light coat of Rem Oil and wipe away the excess.

I did get hooked on the Birchwood Casey kits for refinishing and wood stock touch up's. Sure is a lot easier than polyurethane and lasts longer with less maintenance. Besides that it looks and feels great. Just thought I would toss that in there in case anyone is interested,,,,,

p51mstg

· #19 · Dec 24, 2014

dutchboy said:
Got a quick question. Without having to actually remove the firing pin from the BT380, are there any nozzel sprays that one can use to spray into the hole in order to help keep this area clean???

Maybe carb cleaner would get in there, but I haven't tried it.

I use Hoppe's #9 and Remoil on just about everything.

dutchboy

· #20 · Dec 24, 2014

Thanks P, I've been using an eye droper thingy to insert some Hoppe's into the firing pin hole. The carb cleaner method doesen't sound bad either, just might give it a try. Thanks again.

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