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4430 Views 15 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  p51mstg
Any issues with using Hoppes #9 on the brushed nickel finish?
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I have an old Smith&Wesson .32 that was my Grand fathers and as far as I know Hopps#9 is all its ever been cleaned with. The finish is around 80% I would have to say.
I wouldn't use it on nickle, why take the chance. If it gets under the plating it could cause it to flake off.
Any issues with using Hoppes #9 on the brushed nickel finish?
Call Hoppe's. They will know for sure.
While I've never had a problem with Hoppes I've never had a "plated" gun either. Call Hoppe's.
Try Frog Lube. The best for all firearms.
Try Frog Lube. The best for all firearms.
I've been using that lately. It works great and my safe smells minty fresh.
Hoppes 9 and 9 "copper" are ment for bore cleaning. Incidental contact with plated sufaces should be wiped down fairly soon. I would not use it for general cleaning of the slide or frame. IMOP.
I prefer birchwood casey gun scrubber instead of hoppes
I use #9 on my duo-tone, no issues.
I've tried Gunslick Barrel Cleaning. It works well. Then Rem Oil everything down.
I swear by FIREclean


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Well, if you're taking suggestions then let me recommend Safari Charlie's. It's a great cleaner, lubricant and metal protector.

http://www.superslickstuff.com/lubricant/Safari-Charlie-Gun-Lube.html
The best cleaners, lubricants, etc.

Recently on another forum (yes they exist..lol) a gentleman set out to test 40 top brands of gun cleaner/lubes, etc. He didn't just buy them and try them. He tested them for effective cleaning, lasting ability to protect (by coating 40 metal plates - 1 per and exposing them to elements for prolonged periods up to I think 45 days) , friction and drag, etc. Pretty sophisticated.

The top 3 in every category? Hornady One shot, Frog Lube and WD-40 specialist (not normal WD-40) . I eventually went with the Frog Lube because the Hornady One shot is quite toxic.

If you go with the Frog lube you wont be disappointed however; one thing he noted in ALL cases. The thinner the final lube surface (wipe it clean) the least drag. Having too much lube actually causes more drag.

Hope this helps.
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I have always preferred Break-Free CLP. It works as a cleaner and a lubricant, but just like any cleaner, don't leave it on too long except for a thin, very thin, coat on lubricated parts. Never had problems with Hoppe's.


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If you go with the Frog lube you wont be disappointed however; one thing he noted in ALL cases. The thinner the final lube surface (wipe it clean) the least drag. Having too much lube actually causes more drag.

Hope this helps.
I recall watching an episode of Real Guys Reviews on Youtube, and he did a segment on Frog Lube. Basically, he found the same thing IIRC - more lube tended to gum up moving parts. A thinner coat tended to be better.
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