I have an old Smith&Wesson .32 that was my Grand fathers and as far as I know Hopps#9 is all its ever been cleaned with. The finish is around 80% I would have to say.
I wouldn't use it on nickle, why take the chance. If it gets under the plating it could cause it to flake off.
Hoppes 9 and 9 "copper" are ment for bore cleaning. Incidental contact with plated sufaces should be wiped down fairly soon. I would not use it for general cleaning of the slide or frame. IMOP.
Well, if you're taking suggestions then let me recommend Safari Charlie's. It's a great cleaner, lubricant and metal protector. http://www.superslickstuff.com/lubricant/Safari-Charlie-Gun-Lube.html
The best cleaners, lubricants, etc. Recently on another forum (yes they exist..lol) a gentleman set out to test 40 top brands of gun cleaner/lubes, etc. He didn't just buy them and try them. He tested them for effective cleaning, lasting ability to protect (by coating 40 metal plates - 1 per and exposing them to elements for prolonged periods up to I think 45 days) , friction and drag, etc. Pretty sophisticated. The top 3 in every category? Hornady One shot, Frog Lube and WD-40 specialist (not normal WD-40) . I eventually went with the Frog Lube because the Hornady One shot is quite toxic. If you go with the Frog lube you wont be disappointed however; one thing he noted in ALL cases. The thinner the final lube surface (wipe it clean) the least drag. Having too much lube actually causes more drag. Hope this helps.
I have always preferred Break-Free CLP. It works as a cleaner and a lubricant, but just like any cleaner, don't leave it on too long except for a thin, very thin, coat on lubricated parts. Never had problems with Hoppe's. Sent from my iPad using Bersa Forum
I recall watching an episode of Real Guys Reviews on Youtube, and he did a segment on Frog Lube. Basically, he found the same thing IIRC - more lube tended to gum up moving parts. A thinner coat tended to be better.