Cleaning Bersa 380 Thunder Barrel

Discussion in 'General Bersa Discussion' started by Oscar, Jul 6, 2018.

  1. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    I'm having a hard time cleaning the barrel of my new Bersa. I have shot 360 rounds used Winchester white box ammo and Hornady American Gunner. I use a brass brush and a nylon brush soaked in either Hoppe's number 9 or Rem Oil. No matter how many times I brush I still see streaking in the rifling. I can brush, squeeg-E and still the patches come out a little dirty. Is there a different product I should use? And is this common for the Bersa? My Glock is a breeze to clean. Thanks for any info.
     
  2. Pancho_Villa

    Pancho_Villa Well-Known Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Welcome to the forum from deep south Texas!!!!!!!

    Sounds to me like you are doing everything right.
     

  3. Heymatt

    Heymatt Well-Known Member

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    I wet the patches with Hoppes and run them through the barrel after the brush. Oil the same way and finish with a bore snake.
     
  4. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    Thanks for the response. I cleaned my Bersa yesterday put it away and finished cleaning it today. Still took for ever to get the lead fouling out. Granted I may be little anal about cleaning. If I take my AR out and fire 20 rounds I will take it all the way down and clean it. I have never worked this hard to clean the barrel on a hand gun. I'm wondering if maybe I got the barrel to hot during the break in period. I know to most people my post sounds kind of silly but it's the way it is. Thanks again for the responses.
     
  5. 9UC

    9UC Well-Known Member Lifetime Supporter

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    Sounds a little strange to me that you would be having that much trouble with leading and then getting the barrel clean. Wondering if it could be your ammo choice and I always question the use of WWB. I gave up on using Hoppe's 9 and Rem years ago and currently use a house brand of spray non-chlorinated brake cleaner for the initial rinse and homemade Ed's Red for the scrub down with light use of a brass brush, then another rinse with the brake brake cleaner. One to two patches and the barrel show bright and clean. I do the final lube and wipe down with Finish Line dry teflon.
     
  6. dutchboy

    dutchboy Well-Known Member Supporter

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    Hello Oscar, the barrel of my guns are normally the last part of the gun that I clean. However, it's the first part of the gun that gets the hoppe's. I will run a saturated patch thru the barrel and let it sit while I clean the rest of the gun. This by the way can take as long as a hour or more, in that I am very meticulous about cleaning my guns! I don't mind taking several hours to clean one gun, as I find cleaning my guns enjoyable and extremely therapeutic.

    Once the hoppe's has worked it's magic so to say, I'll dip my brass wire scrub brush in hoppe's and scrub the heck out of my barrel. Then I'll run the clean white patch thru the barrel. This process of course may take several attempts, but I don't mind, in that again, I find gun cleaning very therapeutic. I will repeat this process until my patch comes out clean!
     
  7. Tarheelcracker

    Tarheelcracker Well-Known Member

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    I have read reports that WWB is a particularly dirty firing ammo so perhaps that's part of the problem. Are you actually talking about lead fouling? It was my understanding you were using FMJ.
     
    Renaldo likes this.
  8. Renaldo

    Renaldo Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the only Winchester White Box I'm aware of is FMJ, as is American Gunner. You shouldn't be getting any lead fouling. WWB is a very dirty ammo though, so you may want to skip it in the future.

    I only spot check the inside of my barrel for obstructions. When cleaning I also use Hoppes, brass brush and patches. I also use a mop. I let the patches and mop tell me the story of what's going on inside my barrel.

    I do the barrel with the brush and hoppes, then patches with a little hoppes on them, and then just patches until patches come out clean. If the barrel is especially dirty and I've had 4-5 patches straight come out blackish still, I'll use a dry mop on it and then run a patch through to see. Usually it comes out clean or just about clean.

    It's been my experience (and thus working theory) that a barrel can actually hold a lot of Hoppes, and if I get too much in there, I get the endless parade of dirty patches. Hence the good mopping.
     
  9. Tarheelcracker

    Tarheelcracker Well-Known Member

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    If you are like me you have probably contaminated your bottle of Hoppes. I have often dipped my bore brush directly in the Hoppes container and the same goes for the tooth brush I use for general scrubbing. Until now I haven't given much thought to it but I doubt it's much of a big deal. Of course my old platoon sergeant would not agree.
     
  10. Vincent Marino

    Vincent Marino Active Member

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    Hey Oscar, Looks to me that you're doing the right thing. I'm no Brand Boy, but I always used Hoppes with great success...... rifles, shotguns, and my beloved Bersa Thunder .22.
    I'm very thorough about cleaning my guns. Don't forget that the clean white patch is gonna pass through the action/chamber too. There's a lot of voids/nooks and crannies:) in the chamber. I find that area hardest to clean perfectly. you may be picking up some dirt as that clean patch passes through. You may think its the barrel that's still dirty.
    Now, the ammo issue. I bought a load of .380 ammo from a coworker who no longer shoots.
    Its Olin ammo....who BTW did manufacture for Winchester years ago. Oscar, that stuff is filthy. My stainless PPKS is a mess after 25 rounds, and real hard to clean. Its the dirty powder residue not lead though. I wouldn't sweat the little residue on the patch man.
     
  11. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    Should not have said lead fouling, knew that was wrong but hit send anyway. Thanks for the tips. I was using WWB and I now believe that the accumulation in the rifling was caused by the ammo. The rifling is deeper than any of my other hand guns. Thus more accumulation. I am sure my Hoppes #9 is bad. I have doubled and tripled dipped that thing with a brass bush for a while now. I do check the chamber for build up. I have had problems with other handguns not feeding or ejecting properly because of a dirty chamber. I bought some Sig Sauer ammo this weekend and will shoot some tomorrow. I also finally found some CLP liquid and will switch to using that product on my firearms. Again; thanks for the tips and information I have learned something from the experience.
     
    Vincent Marino likes this.
  12. Vincent Marino

    Vincent Marino Active Member

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    Ok man. let me know about about the Sig ammo if you would. I see it on target sports and I thought about ordering it. I've run alot of ammo through my .380. So far, Remington UMC is my favorite.
     
  13. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    The Sig ammo ran real well through my Bersa 380. I used Sig's Elite Performance Ammo FMG, their practice ammo first. Then I shot their V-Crown JHP self defense ammo. No problems at all. Very accurate. I will continue to buy their ammo. Cabela's has Sig ammo on sale through the 29th of this month.
     
    Vincent Marino likes this.
  14. Vincent Marino

    Vincent Marino Active Member

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    Good to hear Oscar. I'll try some next order.
     
  15. JackStraw

    JackStraw Well-Known Member

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    could try that Hoppes foam cleaner they have at Walmart. Supposed to remove lead deposits I think.
     
  16. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    Thanks for the tip on Hoppe's Foam Cleaner. I recently switched to CLP liquid. I was using Rem Oil exclusively. I am very pleased with the liquid CLP it does a great job on my hand guns and rifles.
     
  17. boomerguy49

    boomerguy49 Well-Known Member

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    I only use spray CLP on all of my guns. My daughter's firearms instructor (yeah, that kind of daughter) showed me how he teaches cleaning and it works very well. Regardless of the firearm:
    -place a wadded cleaning patch in one end of the barrel as a stopper
    -spray a tiny bit of CLP (it foams up, so be careful) into the barrel and then use a second wadded cleaning patch to plug the other end.
    -set the barrel aside while cleaning the rest of the gun and then come back later after the CLP has had time to soak
    -for particularly dirty barrels (yes, WWB is very dirty) I use a brass spiral brush by itself and then I wrap cleaning patch soaked with CLP around the brass brush to clean again -- repeat as needed
    When finished, be sure all of the gun is dry inside and out. I use a spray can of air that is for cleaning keyboards which pushes all of the residual drops out.
    I always clean my guns within a few hours of returning from the target range and all of my guns stay clean by using this procedure.
    One tiny spray can will clean hundreds of guns using this procedure.
     
  18. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    Thanks for the tips. I do prefer the liquid CLP it is easier to control. I like the wet patch wrapped on the brush; will try that. I use the compressed air can on my MSR will try it on my pistols. Hadn't thought of that. Thanks.
     
  19. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    Bought a new 9mm pistol the other day with a stainless steel barrel. Shot a lot of ammo through it and had a hard time cleaning the barrel, deja vu. It was recommended earlier that I try Hoppe's foam cleaner. Well I didn't do that but ; I tried Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber Foaming Gel. Wow did that stuff work. I can't believe how bright and clean my pistol barrels are now. I very pleased and would recommend the product.
     
  20. Oscar

    Oscar Active Member

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    Staying with the barrel cleaning theme I found a good article to share. It may be a bit of an over kill on barrel cleanliness but I think there is enough information that most shooters will glean something from the piece. Got get a life and get off the cleaning thing.
    https://www.range365.com/dirty-little-secret-gun-cleaning